We have a new training tool in the cave for building finger strength. The HIT system stands for Hypergravity Isolation Training. Here's a workout that we recommend trying. This is for intermediate to advanced climbers only. It takes time to develop the tendons and muscles in the fingers. Always warm up before this workout. We recommend 20-30 mins of stretching and bouldering prior to starting the HIT workout.
Three Requirements for Effective Training
1. High Intensity throughout workout.
2. Rapid Muscle Failure (12 reps / hand). If you do more than 24 total reps, add weight using a weight vest.
3. Focus on single grip for an entire set.
1. Warm up (20-30 mins) of bouldering and stretching
2. Crimp Grips - 3 sets (3 minute rest in between)
3. Pinch Grips - 2 sets (3 minute rest in between)
4. Two Finger Pockets (pointer finger and middle finger) - 2 sets (3 minute rest in between)
5. Two Finger Pockets (middle finger and ring finger) - 2 sets (3 minute rest in between)
6. Two Finger Pockets (ring finger and pinky finger) - 2 sets (3 minute rest in between)
7. Open Hand Grip - 2 sets (3 minute rest in between)
8. Cool Down - 10 mins of light bouldering / traversing
9. Reverse Wrist Curls - 10-15 lb dumbells x 3 sets
10. Recover - Eat clean protein, drink lots of water and rest. Recommend 2-3 days rest.
HIT workouts are intense. Make sure you warm up, stretch, cool down and recovery well. This is not recommended for beginner climbers.